Matthew Adams Dolan
How does a designer step out of the shadow of Rihanna after she wears his artful take on Canadian Tuxedos not once, not twice, but well over half-a-dozen times? Well, Matthew Adams Dolan is cementing his place as one of New York’s most talented rising fashion stars, so that’s something he doesn’t really have to worry about.
Mostly known for taking luxe denim and blowing out shapes to exaggerated proportions, resulting in dragging flares and coats that could double as a jean blanket, Dolan, a Parsons graduate, used his first show at NYFW to rein it in. That is, there were skinny and straight jeans on this runway. He did prove his prowess with tailoring, delivering tent-like button-downs that seemed to taunt those worn by Wall Street types, a brown suit with a cartoon-esque shape, and voluminous, pleated khakis that actually looked cool.
Dolan was born in Massachusetts but has lived in Japan, Switzerland, and Australia, and for someone with such an international background, he really hunkered down on Americana this season. In particular, he studied the Lo-Lifes, a Brooklyn, New York, gang in the ’80s and ’90s that worshiped at the altar of Ralph Lauren—members acquired his preppy designs in any way possible, legal or not. Dolan specifically looked at “how they appropriated that Ralph Lauren idea,” and translated that into subversive monograms and artfully twisted cable knits and boxers as outerwear.
If you still had any question of Dolan’s staying power, consider that all of his designs are gender-neutral. As he smartly puts it, “I think it’s more about clothes rather than who’s wearing them.”