It is August in Brooklyn, New York; it’s the second heat wave of the summer. I feel the wet spot of sweat on my back grow, as I practically run to make it on time to a meeting. It’s hard to imagine a future beyond this sweltering reality. However, my destination—Gogo Graham’s Spring/Summer 2017 collection—is proof that time does go on, the seasons do change. This is how the fashion system works; it anticipates the desires of the consumer months in advance. By looking into the future, the industry determines what we will find aspirational; in a sense, who we will want to be.
But the industry’s idea of the future is quite different from the ethos of Gogo, who has long worked independently, rather than by pandering to buyers. As a transgender woman, Gogo exclusively creates clothing for trans and gender non-conforming people. This is how she maintains the sacredness of dressmaking. As a trans woman, I look to Gogo’s show to see myself. Her show during New York Fashion Week is a time for the world to meditate on trans women’s collective beauty and talent. For this upcoming season, I wouldn’t just be a bystander. I would be walking in the show, and I was prepared to offer my person as a medium for Gogo’s vision.