Your Guide To Russian Manicures

Manicure trends come and go, but one that shows no signs of slowing down is the viral Russian manicure. While the ultra-precise, cuticle-focused technique isn't necessarily new (it's been a nail industry secret for years), TikTok made it popular, and now it seems like the pricey mani is sitting pretty on almost everyone's fingernails. Celebrity nail artist and Russian manicure specialist Lisa Kon knows the mani’s influence firsthand, and can always count on the flawless, hyper-clean, polished, and long-lasting style to blow people away. "In an age of close-up content and high-definition beauty, this level of perfection is extremely appealing," she says.

Kon’s glowing endorsement aside, the manicure style isn’t exactly an across-the-board favorite. Dermatologists have been known to be weary, and the pricey cost is sure to make you do a double take. But with so much chatter swirling around it, it’s hard to know whether or not the manicure’s near-perfect results are worth the potential risk that some say can come with it. We wanted answers, so we asked three celebrity manicurists to give us the tea on all things Russian manicures and the hype surrounding them.

What Is A Russian Manicure?

A Russian manicure is a skillful technique that involves using an electric file (e-file) with various bits to gently clean and remove dead skin from the nail bed and cuticle area. "It creates an elegant and precise appearance that’s durable with a finish so perfect it looks airbrushed,” Kon explains. The mani gets its cleaner results and better polish adhesion by forgoing the use of water, resulting in a flawless, long-lasting set that enhances the shape of the nails. "It's about giving clients that ‘luxury hand’ look where every detail is intentional,” the expert says.

The manicure begins by first prepping and cleaning the nails with an e-file. "Nail prep is the most important part of a Russian manicure, and it takes the most time," says Mazz Hanna, a celebrity manicurist and advisor at Nailing Hollywood. "Because the technique relies heavily on an e-file, it's critical to spend adequate time on this step for precision and safety."

After prepping, shaping, and lightly buffing the nails, it’s time to get to work on the cuticles. Hanna explains that using cuticle scissors and an e-file to gently exfoliate and remove the skin around the nails allows for a cleaner polish application on a larger surface area, bringing the polish as close as possible to the nail bed. "Then, once the nail plate is fully prepped, gel polish is applied in a highly specialized manner to smooth the surface and correctly build the apex for strength and structure," she adds.

A layer or two of either a gel polish base coat or builder gel (which allows the gel polish to adhere properly) is first applied to the nails, depending on your manicurist's preference. Then, traditional gel polish is painted onto the nails directly under the cuticle line, which Kon says gives the nails a perfect look. Each nail is to be cured under a UV or LED lamp until the polish hardens, so that a layer of glossy or matte topcoat can be applied on top. The dust is then removed, and the nails and cuticles are topped with cuticle oil. In total, a Russian manicure takes about two hours — and that’s without any nail art.

Russian Manicure vs. Other Manicures

The most significant difference between a Russian manicure and other types of manicures, including traditional gel polish and dip powders, is the degree of precision and preparation involved. "Russian manicures are all about detailing the cuticle area for a super clean base," says celebrity manicurist Elle Gerstein. "Regular manicures might push back the cuticles, but a Russian manicure goes several steps further. Cleaning the cuticles in such a thorough manner lets the gel polish last longer and grow out more beautifully for less noticeable regrowth."

Unlike traditional gel manicures, which involve soaking and scraping the nails, Hanna says the Russian mani’s use of hard gel or builder gel allows for longer-lasting results and less damage over time. "Also, building the gel in a special way upon the nails creates a pretty shape," the expert explains.

Russian manicures don't come cheap. One can easily set you back $100 or more, and for good reason. Not only is this style far more time-consuming and labor-intensive, but it’s also the most reliable way to guarantee a durable, chip-free manicure that lasts for three to four weeks. "This is a super-skilled technique, and just the education alone, hours of practice, and cost of material sanitation and sterilization in a proper setting is expensive," Gerstein shares. "So, if someone is offering a Russian manicure for less than what a master nail tech charges for it, you are likely with someone with less experience, and that's a red flag."

The Benefits Of A Russian Manicure

Diehard fans of the Russian manicure love the longevity and durability it offers, making it a highly sought-after nail treatment. If you're after perfect-looking, sleek nails with a seamless finish, then a Russian manicure is probably for you. "The precisely applied polish goes right up to the meticulous cuticle line without flooding it, so the regrowth is less noticeable," says Gerstein. "The nails last so much longer than a regular manicure, and they stay beautiful without lifting or overgrown cuticles." When done correctly, the nails can even look like they’ve been photoshopped IRL. "Truth be told, going back to a regular manicure after having a Russian one is difficult,” Gerstein admits.

Are Russian Manicures Safe?

Russian manicures are a highly debated topic, and although they aren't necessarily popular among dermatologists, Hanna calls them incredibly safe and effective for growing healthy, long, natural-looking nails. However, the manicure has a reputation among some as being potentially risky and damaging due to the amount of skin and cuticle removal involved, which can expose too much of the underlying soft tissue, making it prone to infection or trauma.

Gerstein says using the wrong e-file bits, applying too much pressure, or not following proper sanitation protocols can also cause damage. "Overfiling or aggressive cuticle work can harm the nails, so make sure to see a licensed professional who knows the Russian manicure technique well," the expert advises.

The Bottom Line

While the idea of using an e-file on the nails and cuticles may sound painful, a Russian manicure is anything but that. Kon says that when done properly, the manicure can even improve the health and appearance of the nail area over time by reducing buildup and hangnails. But at the end of the day, making the right decision for your nails and their health is what matters.

Russian Manicure Design Ideas

Watercolor Details

Trimming the nails with a chic yet somewhat abstract blue and gold watercolor design gives a pretty effect to an otherwise standard Russian manicure.

Chromed Out Tips

Super clean silver chrome nails get the royal treatment with the perfect nail length and shape, giving a sophisticated and feminine feel to this trendy manicure.

Glazed Donut Nails

Shorter nail styles twinkle against the meticulous detail of a Russian manicure, and this creamy glazed donut style is a perfect example. Rounded tips and a hint of the natural nail line peeking through is the cherry on top.

A Mix-N-Matcha Moment

One of the benefits of a Russian manicure is expertly shaped nails that make for the perfect base for any nail style. This subtle nail art design encompasses all the elements of a sophisticated set: glossy polish, intricate details, and virtually undetectable cuticles.

Butter Yellow FTW

Butter-yellow nails show no signs of slowing down. When paired with the cuticle work of a Russian manicure, there’s even more space for this dreamy color to take up prime real estate on the nails.

Pink Marble

Nothing says ultra-girly nails quite like pink. Take the color up a notch with a marbled effect and a hint of glitter for an elevated appeal.

Megawatt Mirror-Like Shine

This Russian manicure, complete with a sharp square nail and perfectly groomed cuticles, is the perfect backdrop for super-shiny chrome powder. The mirror-like finish is the ultimate sparkle.

Dainty Decals

This clean Russian manicure done with creamy tips gets a twist with cute, tiny ladybug and cherry accents for something sweet and fun.

Tropical Fantasy

Infuse your mani with a vacation mindset by way of tropical plant details that adorn a couple of neutral-colored accent nails.

Graced With Lace

Add edge to an otherwise nude Russian manicure with intricate lace-like and lingerie-coded details.