Kiko Kostadinov and Dr. Martens Step Out in East London

Friday the 13th usually feels ominous, notoriously a day of misfortune. Though last week, in the midst of East London, it couldn’t have been further from the case. Nestled deep down an unassuming Haggerston road, Kiko Kostadinov opened after-hours to celebrate the launch of their partnership with Dr. Martens: a contrasting two-pair offering, in a muted, utilitarian men’s style, and a bolder, hybrid take on classic styles in the women’s.

A snaking, extremely well-dressed queue revealed the location, alerting all nearby to the store’s presence and enticing passers-by (if not too intimidated by the fashionable motley crew) to enquire what was happening. The bold joined, and the others would read about it online once over. At the door, a swarm of stylish East Londoners were told that if they didn’t want a drink, they could go right in — the queue didn’t falter. Inside, the crowd showcased a heady blend of London’s underground. Hyper Kiko girls crossed paths with Japanese punks, as chic archivists navigated through rockers around the retrofuturist brick-and-mortar resting beneath the brand’s design studio. Natural wine in-hand, the crowd swirled in equal parts admiration of the space, the collaboration, and each other. Different styles embracing friends old and new — the perfect setting for the new friendship formed between Kiko Kostadinov and Dr. Martens.

Kiko Kostadinov, known for intriguing silhouettes with Camper and reshaping footwear at ASICS, have now turned their hand towards London icon, Dr. Martens, joining the fabled alumni of DM collaborators including Rick Owens, Raf Simons, and Comme des Garçons, among many more. It’s almost become a rite of passage — albeit a testament to the brand — joining the rankings of coveted designers before them.

First teased in November as part of the Dante collection, the collaboration paid homage to the brand’s Lakeland-terrier mascot and coincided with the opening of the new store. Two storied London labels coming together over drinks in the borough of Hackney on a Friday night couldn’t be more fitting for the release. One wall pulsed with projected visuals, while another was adorned by the new release sat alongside photobooks, remnants of beers, and natural wines — souvenirs of a party past.

The disparate styles reflected the brand’s dual focus on men’s and women’s design. The menswear line, designed by Kostadinov himself, features a silhouette inspired by workwear, rendered in a dystopian all-black palette. Made from the last of Dr. Marten’s reserve of a rare deadstock leather, the limited run won’t be replicated — adding yet another layer to the brand’s exclusive allure.

The womenswear line, led by design duo Laura and Deanna Fanning, offers a balance to the discreet utilitarian model in a far contrasting form. Blending textures and classic shapes, the Mary Jane and the Oxford are fused in true hybrid fashion — a design ethos rooted in Kiko Kostadinov’s womenswear throughout each collection. Chartreuse suede, embossed to mimic snakeskin, wraps darker two-tone green patent leather, creating a ballet-flat-inspired silhouette with edgier accents and complete with a nod to Dante in the dog-tag attached to the laces. Call it “chic prep meets chaotic rebellion” — a fitting response to the crowd and the duality at the heart of Kiko Kostadinov.

The night ended with the crowd spilling into the streets, continuing conversations surrounding all things fashion, culture, and the location of the afters. Not to mention the shoes — far fewer remaining in the store by the time the final drink was poured and the party kicked off elsewhere.