FX’s 'Pistol' Gives Us a Look at the Role of Fashion in the Punk Movement

Vivienne Westwood has been dressing some of the biggest names in pop culture for decades, but before she was a world-renowned designer, she was trying to get a man who claimed he’d soon be the lead guitarist of a famous band to stop stealing clothes from her shop. At least, that’s the picture painted by FX’s Pistol, which tells the story of the Sex Pistols and the origins of the punk movement. Although it’s difficult to say exactly where it all began, one could certainly argue that SEX, the Kings Road boutique Westwood owned, was the birthplace.

The first episode of the limited series shows guitarist Steve Jones (Toby Wallace) looking around SEX, picking out bondage trousers , controversial graphic t-shirts, and functional rip-repairing safety pins that would eventually become iconic punk accessories that would define punk fashion forever. The jaunt follows a conversation Jones had with his bandmates while they try to define their image. Although they didn’t quite have it all figured out, they knew one thing for sure: “No suits.” The crew decides that as four working class guys from London who no one really cares about—Paul “Cookie” Cook (Jacob Slater), Johnny Rotten (Anson Boon), and Glen Matlock (Christian Lees)—their brand should show that they don’t care much, either. That’s where Westwood (Talulah Riley), and her then-partner, producer Malcolm McLaren (Thomas Brodie-Sangster) come in.

As visionaries in 1970s London — an era in which an underrepresented working class must get creative when they want to be heard — Westwood and McLaren are working to make impactful political statements through all they create. (And in real life, Westwood is still using her art as a form of protest in 2022.) The Sex Pistols would soon become a voice for this group, and it was clear that working together would be an effective way to make an impact. In the limited series, McLaren declares, “Viv and I want to create a revolution, inspired by the raw authenticity of forgotten kids like you.” And from there, the rest is history.

Throughout the series, FX’s Pistol features a number of icons who served as the faces of the punk movement: Jordan (Maisie Williams) challenges the ruling class with scandalous looks often consisting of clear fetish raincoats and bold rubber underwear; Nancy Spungen (Emma Appleton), whose turbulent relationship with Sex Pistols bassist Sid Vicious (Louis Partridge) shows the darkest sides of the era; and fierce singer-songwriter and founding member of The Pretenders, Chrissie Hynde (Sydney Chandler), who is determined to succeed.

As people who would become the most influential in the punk movement, the characters in FX’s Pistol create art and wear fashion that is still incredibly relevant today. From distressed luxe materials to controversial motifs, many of the statement-making looks are still being recreated today.

Watch all episodes of FX’s Pistol now streaming, only on Hulu.