Practically every makeup artist we interviewed during Fashion Week was toying with the idea of colored eyeshadow for spring '13 (as seen at Richard Chai, Peter Som, and the sultry, peach eyes at Theyskens' Theory). But the beauty story in our November issue took the trend to the next level. Makeup artist Marni Burton came up with the idea for this look on the spot, when her only direction for the shoot was to create something fun and new. Since we're certain it will be the next big makeup trend, we had Burton walk us through the steps using our lovely intern, Sarah Wasilak, as the guinea pig. "Sarah has such different coloring from the model from the shoot and I think it's cool that we're recreating it on someone with a completely different look. Everyone you see on the street now has dyed their hair in so many different pastel shades. This is another pretty way to play with different colors that we're not used to wearing," says Burton. You heard it hear first: multi-colored eyes are going to be the new rainbow hair.
Grab a few flat brushes and follow along with the makeup artist's expert tips.
"I didn't use a base color, but I put a little bit of Nars Custard concealer over Sarah's eyelid instead. Then I chose a cool color to be the base of the watercolor eye: Illamsqua Lilac Cream shadow from Sephora. Cover the whole eye with lilac, going all the way up to the brow."
"Since I just used a cool color, I added a few more cool colors like a light teal—it's in a Nars duo of two teals. That goes in the center of the eye, but not all the way in the crease. The trick is to keep it playful and not too deliberate, so the strokes of teal don't need to be perfect or even symmetrical on both eyes."
"Then I picked an even bolder teal eyeshadow called Inglot Eyeshadow Matte 372—because we're going to go from cool to bolder colors. Continue along the crease of the eye next to the teal from the last step. This color is in the same family, but it has more green in it. We're being adventurous! If some of the color falls—it's ok. Again, we're keeping things playfully opposite on each eye rather than boldly opposite, meaning the eyes won't mirror each other exactly."
"Now we're going to add in yellow: Inglot Double Sparkle 474. Keep in mind that if you're going out or you might be photographed, don't be too conservative. You need to use bright colors, because that's what the camera is going to pick up. If you don't want to go all out, just add a little bit of bright yellow near the lash line."
"Now that we've done bold colors we're going to go back to where we started. We're adding in more lilac on the outer part of the eye near the lash line, right next to the yellow."
"Now we're adding splashes of color on top of what we've already done by taking more teal and adding in dashes at random. Feel free to blend them, that will create a new color all together. Anytime I felt like blending them, I did, there's no specific science. It's just supposed to be fun."
"You want the lower lash line to be a little bit sultry, but without drawing too much attention to it. Using an eyeliner brush, add MAC Soft Brown Eye Shadow along the lower lash line. Then curl your lashes and add L'Oreal Voluminous mascara only on the top lashes—again, we don't want it to be too obvious—making sure the wand sits on the base of the lashline for at least two seconds. First do one half of your lashes then the other half. That's the most important part. Then on tweezed eyebrows, use the Chanel Sculpting Pencil in Blonde to fill in your brows."