While Milan Fashion Week welcomed the return of in-person runway shows, some designers opted to present their latest collection digitally, including Giuliano Calza of GCDS. The Naples-born creative, who launched his brand, which stands for “God Can’t Destroy Streetwear,” in 2015, debuted GCDS’ Spring 2022 collection with a fashion film inspired by growing up in his hometown and the folklore that surrounds the southern Italian seaside town.
“From the very beginning I wanted to do something that felt cozy, like a childhood summer,” Calza tells NYLON. “There’s many stories about mermaids and I wanted to make everyone step into another dimension with me.”
While the GCDS fashion films have been making waves over the past few seasons, including Dua Lipa’s younger sister Rina making her runway debut for Fall 2021, Calza hopes to return to a live runway show during Milan Fashion Week — when the timing is right.
“I love creating different scenarios and, thanks to a digital show, of course it’s easier,” he says. “Unfortunately, I do miss the energy of the show; the coming together of strangers, models, press, kids, etc. I just thought this wasn’t the best time yet.”
When it’s time for spring and summer gatherings next year, Calza created the ideal wardrobe, fit for an island vacation fantasy. The new GCDS collection, which debuted on Thursday, Sept. 23, includes swimwear, wide-brim hats, chunky slip-on clogs for the beach, as well as blazers, knitwear, embellished jumpsuits, and deadstock denim for nights out.
“We tried different watches to make it look faded away,” explains Calza. “Lots crochet and embroideries were the biggest study of the season. I really loved the see-through looks with crystals. We had to wash it with different colors in order to create an iridescent mermaid style.”
Of course, a GCDS wouldn’t be complete without Calza’s signature barely-there crochet bikinis, which has been spotted not once, but twice on Dua Lipa. (The pop star has even already worn the Spring 2022 look pictured above.) This time around, the designer created a teeny-tiny two-piece made from jewels and crystals. “It was a more bittersweet version,” he says. “I felt like we deserved a teardrops water version, but a more upgraded glam one.”
As for where he’d like to see his newest collection IRL, Calza already has a few ideas: “I’d love to see it on stage or on the beach next to me while drinking a martini.”
Ahead, Giuliano Calza of GCDS takes us behind the scenes of his Spring 2022 collection.
Watch the full GCDS Spring 2022 runway show, below.