With Pierpaolo Piccioli Out At Balenciaga, The Second Changing Of The Guards Is Here

Change is in the air. Not only did the Democrats usher in a blue wave and reclaim both the House and Senate with the 2026 midterm elections (and, according to those very online, Woke Version Three), but in fashion universe, the musical-chairs game of creative directors at major labels is back for another fiesty round. On Nov. 5, Balenciaga announced it is parting ways with Pierpaolo Piccioli, who was only in charge for 16 months at the brand, setting off yet another round of departures and hirings in what has proven to be an uncertain time for the industry.

This news of Balenciaga and Piccioli’s separating comes off the heels of two other major departures at Kering, the fashion conglomerate that also owns Bottega Veneta and Gucci. After his gilded-in-gold show, Anthony Vaccarello returned the keys of Saint Laurent to its owners and stepped down after a decade of redefining Parisian glamour and celebrity style; shortly thereafter, McQueen and Seán McGirr went their separate ways after a two-year collaboration.

A few more switch-ups after Fashion Month also included Glenn Martens exiting Diesel after an eight-year stint as creative director — he’ll now solely focus on designing at Maison Margiela — and Veronica Leoni ended her two-year tenure at Calvin Klein. Olivier Rousteing is set to be the next creative director of Rabanne, Pieter Mulier will debut his vision for Versace at Couture in Jan. 2027 after stepping down from his role at Alaïa, and Grace Wales Bonner is set to chart a new course for Hermès mens in January as well. Fashion wunderkind Dario Vitale was also recently appointed creative director of Emporio Armani and Giorgio Armani accessories after his one-season-only pit-stop at Versace set the fashion world ablaze.

There are a few houses with question marks next to them, and only in rumor form. Multiple sources have claimed Martine Rose will take the helm at Balenciaga, and rumors were swirling during Paris Fashion Week that Chemena Kamali at Chloé would be taking over for Vaccarello at Saint Laurent. Now, McQueen, Saint Laurent, Etro, Diesel, Alaïa, Calvin Klein, and others hang in the in-between while the world waits to see what news comes next.

It’s a precarious time in the industry. After great growth following the pandemic, the fashion business has softened, with demand down across most markets and the ceaseless amount of collections and collaborations, it’s harder and harder to make things stick. It’s also easier for brands and conglomerates to tell when things aren’t sticking, especially when things like Matthieu Blazy’s Chanel and the ever-evolving world of J.Crew are landing so easily with customers and the scathing public-commentary arena alike. After the great first game of fashion musical chairs a few seasons ago, we predicted (and were right) that more change would come, and now, there lies plenty of opportunity for someone relatively unknown to make their mark at one of these houses. But, if history repeats itself, we’ll see a few familiar names try to interpret the contemporary iterations of such historical brands like Balenciaga and Alaïa.

Our personal picks? Rose at Balenciaga would be a dream, ditto Kamali at Chloé. Additionally, we’d love to see the duo Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta of Eckhaus Latta take a stab at either Diesel or Calvin Klein; their sexy, downtown take on sportswear (and denim) have earned them critical accolades and several key collaborations this year, and they’re more than ready to try their hand at a major label. As for the remaining empty seats, time will tell what direction executives will go, but one thing is for sure: It’s time to try something new.